DIYdeals - Instructions for 'On the Ground' Decking
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E-mail any questions to timber@diydeals.com
1.For 'On the Ground' Timber Decks 2.4, 3.0 & 3.6m wide x 2.5, 3.1 & 3.7m with or without Pergola or Balustrade
Before starting erection of Deck
Please note that deck-boards and joists are the same grooved timber. They may be used grooved side upwards, plain side upwards or alternated 1 up & 1 down for a variation - depending on your choice. The grooved side up will help prevent slipping in wet conditions.
A. Marking out position of deck
i. Choose a site that is flat or only a slight slope. Mark out the perimeter with pegs and line. Check for squareness by measuring for equal diagonals. Clear any obstructions that may interfere with the deck or pergola - ground levelling is not required as the posts will be used to level the deck.
B. If using a Pergola - Driving Post Anchors into the ground, cutting and fixing Posts
i If using Pergola measure the approx. height you wish the top of the Pergola Support to be, say between 2,000 mm & 2,300 mm depending on your preference from the top of the joists. Calculate the Post length for all Posts from the base of the Post Anchor. Make cuts with a slight fall from front to back. Cut a piece of post to use inside the Post Anchors when driving them into the ground. Position the post anchors at least 300mm in from the front and the side joists. Drive the Anchors into the ground continually checking and adjusting for uprightness and squareness.
ii. Fix
Posts into Post Anchors (where possible, ensure cut edge is at the top with the
fall from front to back to assist clearing rainwater).
Posts may require easing to fit the Post Anchors
- Brush Preserver onto the cut surfaces
-Check verticals & tighten bolts to ensure good grip.
There should be no need to 'concrete 
in'
the post anchors.
2. Fixing the Pergola
i. Shaping Pergola timbers and Fixing the pergola supports & tops - Pergola timbers may be left square or, if desired, a 50 mm cut at 45 degrees may be made. If 2 pergola supports are required for the front and back of each post make the cut at the top with a slight slope to the side. Brush Preserver onto the cut surfaces.
ii. Position
Front Pergola Support against and to line up with the top of the Posts
and to line up with Side Joists - this should give equal overhang from
the Posts. Temporarily fix with one large screw. Check levels and adjust if
necessary. When happy with the height and level - fix with 3 more screws into
each post to secure. Repeat for Back Pergola Support at front of Posts. Check uprights and place both outside pergola tops so that there are equal
projections. Position the 2 outside tops 250 mm from ends and space remaining
tops at equal centres. Screw in place with a large screw from both sides of
the top into the Pergola Support. There are 5 pergola tops for 2.4m wide, 6 for
the 3.0m wide and 8 for the 3.6m wide decks.
3. Fixing Joists
A. Spacing & fixing joists
i. Equally space out joists between the front and rear joists - 5 joists are used for the 2.4m wide, 6 for the 3.0m and 7 for the 3.6m.
ii. Lay the Support Joists on the ground with the inside face pointing upwards. Position the longer side of the Corner Brackets on the Side Joists so that they are flush with the end and are 20 mm in from the top & bottom. Use 3 of the Screws to fix each Corner Bracket to the Side Joists. Ensure that the tops of all Joists are flush and fix all the Support Joists, using Small Screws, into each end of the Front & Rear Joists (J & K) - the Side Support Joists can be flush (especially when joining two decks together) or, if desired, they can be up to 40mm in from each end to provide an overhang for the deck boards.
4. If using Balustrade -click here N.B. Always fix Newel Posts before fixing Deck Boards
5. Fixing the Deck Boards - 17 are used for the 2.5m, 21 for the 3.1m and 25 for the 3.7m
A. Attaching Deck Board Ties to the Deck Boards
i. Stand
all but one of the Deck Boards on edge and fix 5 Deck Board Fixing Clips
to each so that they are spaced: one in the centre, one (500mm for 2.4m, 600mm
for 3.0m or 700 mm for 3.6m wide deck) either side of the centre and one 200 mm
from both ends. Fit them so that the tongues line up with the bottom edge
- use the Short Nails and hammer firmly into place.
B. Fixing the First Deck Board
i.
This is the only one without Deck Board Fixing Clips attached. Position the
first board - it should be flush with the Front Joists. Drill a series of 3 mm pilot holes at an angle through the top corner of the
front edge of the First Deck Board in line with all the Joists and screw through
each a Long Screw into the Front Joist checking that this first Deck Board is
flush with the front or with an overhang of up to 20mm and the ends & square. Tighten screws so that the screw head
goes just below the surface. Repeat the fixing onto the back edge of this first
Deck Board with 1 long screw into each joist so that the back screws are hidden
when 
the next
Deck Board is fixed.
C. How to calculate the gaps between the Deck Boards
i. Because the Deck Boards can vary in width by approx. 3 mm depending on their moisture content it is better when spacing to measure from the front edge of the board already in place to front edge of the Deck Board being placed. Remember that the Boards will increase in Winter and reduce in Summer. The recommended Front Edge to Front Edge spacing is 147/ 148 mm. Fixing the Boards too close together in the Summer Months may cause them to buckle up in Winter.
D. Fixing the 2nd and subsequent Deck Boards
i. Place into position by tucking the tongues under the board in front checking that it lines up with Side Joists (L & M). Leave the required gap then screw with 8 long screws - one into each joist. Pre-drilling especially over the Side Joists will reduce splitting. Continue with the subsequent boards until reaching the Posts (if using Pergola) - if with no pergola proceed to (5F)
E. Cutting & Fixing Deck Boards around the Posts when using pergola
i. The spacing should work out that two boards will need cutting around each set of Posts.
ii. Place the first of the Deck Boards to be cut up against the Posts from the front and line up with the other deck boards. Mark with a pencil where the posts will go and also mark the depth to line up with the back of the posts - mark the area to be cut out. (It is better to make the cut-out a little bigger than smaller). Use a hand saw or preferably a jigsaw to cut along marks - allow 3 - 5 mm for clearance around Posts. Carefully chisel out the block where post will go (by removing more from the underside it will be easier to fix into place against the Post. Temporarily check to see if the cut-outs fit and that the outside edges are in line with the other deck boards - make adjustments if necessary. Brush Wood Preserver onto the cut surfaces. Fix as above, pre-drilling the Deck Boards above the Support Joists, by the cut ends, is recommended to avoid splitting.
iii. Place the second of the Deck Boards to be cut up against the Posts from the back and line up with the other deck boards. Cut & Fix as in (5Eii)
F. Fixing the last Deck Boards
i .When placing the last 6 boards, check to see what gaps are required between deck boards and if adjustments are necessary. It does not matter if there is an overhang of up to 40 mm, but screwing through the face will be necessary to fix the last board. If the Last Board lines up with the Rear Joists -Fix as (5Di).
6. Finishing & Maintenance
i. All timbers being Preserved further treatment is not necessary and the timber will fade to a natural grey colour. If preferred, the deck may be coated with Decking Stain to the colour of your choice. If there is any build of moss, after winter use an anti-fungicidal and hose down to remove. To restore the colour apply a further coat of Decking Stain.
ii. Dispose of all waste timber in your dustbin - do not burn. Wash hands after handling timber - especially before eating. Always wear safety glasses when using power tools.
Help Line -
For more information - contact Peter Dale on 01457 855259
All rights reserved. 04/01/2008.
You may print this copy for use during erection. This leaflet may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written approval of Peter Dale.
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